It always took me about half a minute to figure out how to load it properly and teaching a high school mountaineering team how to do this was near impossible. Although you must still hold onto the brake strand, the braking assist does most of the work, effectively locking the device when the climber falls, and easily holding their weight as they rest, requiring minimal sustained gripping or effort on the belayer's part. My Final Opinion of Mega Jul Sport. You can also use a carabiner as a lever arm clipped into the small eye hole on the back to aid with this process, not shown in this photo. To get a belay device that does it all in an efficient and small package makes the Giga Jul thoroughly worth considering. We only recommend using a round stock carabiner with this device. Edelrid Giga Jul - Specifikace. That said, we like it as an option in case we don't have a prussik for backup. We found that round stock pear biners (HMS) work best, as they provide the least friction so you can easily pay out slack. Weight: 65 g Our most versatile belay and abseil device made of solid stainless steel for durability. I did find, as with the Mega Jul, that belay gloves help significantly with lowering climbers, especially since the rope is practically rubbing over your thumb as you lower. The Giga Jul is a standard and assisted-braking tuber in one. 717840006630. PRODUKTINFOS. The Giga Jul can replace both your guide ATC and auto-locking device (like your grigri) all while still being able to do every action you need while climbing. All of the testers who used this device said that they agreed it was less jerky and "grabby" than the similar Mega Jul, which is a good thing. Whenever I belayed in guide’s mode with a Mega Jul, unless using ultra-skinny half ropes, I would yell expletives and get an unwanted shoulder workout. In this mode, it works much like the other tube-style auto-block devices, and while it is very effective at locking off the seconders rope, there is a fair amount of friction built into the system. Especially with the small size of the Mega Jul, loading the ropes into the device was a struggle. Giga Jul Mega Jul Sport Mega Jul Micro Jul JUL² Guide Mode Additional Eyelet Single Rope Belay Twin/Half Rope Belay Rope Diameter 7.1 – 10.0 mm 7.9 – 11.0 mm 7.8 – 10.5 mm 6.9 – 8.0 mm 8.9 –11.0 mm Weight 100 g 88 g 65 g 62 g 105 g The SI prefix "mega" represents a factor of 10 6, or in exponential notation, 1E6. It takes some practice … Traditionally, with an assisted tube device, there is no way to keep the device from assisting. — Weight: 65 grams. The Edelrid Giga Jul is the brand's most versatile belay device. Kilo, mega, giga, tera, peta, exa, zetta are among the list of binary prefixes used to denote the quantity of something, such as a byte or bit in computing and telecommunications. This is the smoothest way to feed slack, and also the least likely for a belayer to accidentally short rope their leader. The assisted braking function which supports the braking force can be activated or disabled by an intelligent mechanism. The assisted braking function which supports the braking force can be activated or disabled by an intelligent mechanism. The Giga Jul is a standard and assisted braking tuber in one. What you're looking for is at the end, and involves clipping a biner through the nose to use for leverage. Finally, the slider bar can be flipped to the opposite side and the device can be used in brake assist mode, for an easier and more secure catch and hold when belaying either a leader or top-roper. There isn’t a device that is proficient at all styles of belaying on the market yet, and no one wants to spend lots of money on multiple belay devices. Let’s discuss the Giga Jul, as it is initially a little complicated. The assisted braking function which supports the braking force can be activated … This is made possible by a smart hybrid construction of aluminum and steel. It is also very large in size compared to the Mega Jul. The belay technique is similar to any other tube-style device, but when feeding slack, the belayer must hold the thumb loop so the rope will run through the device without locking up. Each mode has a corresponding diagram on either side of the device to indicate the direction the rope should be loaded. Výrobce. Giga Jul. The ultimate "bite" depends on the rope and carabiner you pair the Giga Jul with. Rappelling in assisted braking mode, as we are here, is not our favorite because holding the thumb loop upward in the right place is tiring and hard to stay in the sweet spot without jerking. If compared directly to an ATC-Guide or a GriGri, the Giga Jul falls a little short in both departments. PRODUKTINFOS. Small eyelet for releasing unit with a carabiner when bringing up your partner Guide mode: simple and rapid abseiling … BEIM HÄNDLER KAUFEN. The technique felt natural after a few pitches. At a Glance - Small eyelet for releasing unit with a carabiner when bringing up your partner - Suitable for 7.9 - 10.5 mm ropes - Guide mode: simple and rapid abseiling and bringing up seconds plus comfortable … Super Versatile belay device. Super Versatile belay device. Rotate the device 180 degrees and move the sliding plate closer to you again and it will be in assisted braking mode. A groove in the device’s body locks down hard on a locking carabiner and rope when it’s loaded. Skip to the beginning of the images gallery. In brake-assisted belay mode, giving slack is much more efficient and fluid. The Giga Jul is a standard and assisted braking tuber in one. ... Edelrid Giga Jul Review - Duration: 31:17. Most of the Mega Jul's flaws have been improved upon with the newer release, so that is the one we would sooner recommend. Das Giga Jul ist Tuber und Autotuber in einem. At first the Mega Jul appears to be another plaquette-style belay device with two slots for double-rope rappels, an external "ear" for auto-block mode, an unlocking eye and a keeper cable. The Giga Jul is a standard and assisted braking tuber in one. At a Glance - Small eyelet for releasing unit with a carabiner when bringing up your partner The assisted braking function which supports the braking force can be activated or disabled by an intelligent mechanism. The Mega Jul Sport is a tube-style device that relies on its shape to catch the rope in the event of a fall, so it has no moving parts. Für situationsabhängiges Sichern und Abseilen vor allem im alpinen Gelände. [Photo] Andrew Councell. The Giga Jul has made many great improvements to these functions. SLATE . I do not recommend ever doing this, having done this with both devices. The combination of these three different modes allows for a nearly endless amount of options when lead belaying, belaying the second, or rappelling, … The most versatile ever belay device. The Jul sport will take a thicker rope (11mm vs 10.5) a bit better than the original Mega Jul, but the same as the Jul 2. Anytime two ropes are running over each other, as they are in this setup, there is going to be a lot of friction, adding fatigue to your shoulders and elbows as the day goes on. A slider moves across the device to block the notch that allows the belay carabiner to jam, and you flip the device around so that standard V-notches engage the brake side of the ropes and keep the Jul thumb loop out of the way, transforming the braking assisted device to a tuber. SLATE . The Mega Jul is a device full of flaws, in my opinion. We only make money if you purchase a product through our links, and we never accept free products from manufacturers. The unit is pronounced to rhyme with "tool", and is named in honor of the physicist James Prescott Joule (1818-1889). Tera (1 trillion) comes from the Greek word teras or teratos, meaning \"marvel, monster,\" and has been in use since approximately 1947. It is best to spend some time familiarizing yourself with which direction is assisted braking and which is non-assisted braking. For situation-dependent belaying and abseiling, especially in alpine terrain. The belay technique is similar to any other tube-style device, but when feeding slack, the belayer must hold the thumb loop so the rope will run through the device without locking up. Durch einen intelligenten Mechanismus lässt sich die bremskraftunterstützende Autotuber-Funktion zu oder wegschalten. Shown here for size comparison, the Giga Jul on the left against the BD ATC Guide on the right, which is a bit smaller, and a fair bit lighter, but doesn't have the option of being used in assisted braking mode, and also doesn't have stainless steel inserts for greater longevity. $49.95 . The SI prefix "mega" represents a factor of 10 6, or in exponential notation, 1E6. Posted by Parker Webb | Gear Feature, Journal. In terms of bulk, it is a little bit larger than other auto-block devices, but certainly not by much. purchased a bulletproof beaner to have a the benefit of a slower wearing beaner however the assisted breaking mode no longer properly assists . 7.8-10.5mm — Assisted breaking for lead belays and belaying seconds from above. The Mega Jul is a device full of flaws, in my opinion. The value of this device is due largely to the fact that you can use it in three different modes. Only when a climber has mastered belaying are they ready to test out the features of the Edelrid Micro/Mega Jul. The Giga Jul is particularly light and simultaneously robust and abrasion resistant. The SI prefix "mega" represents a factor of 10 6, or in exponential notation, 1E6. Features. VIDEO. So 1 megajoule = 10 6 joules. It took much longer than normal rappelling would. The Edelrid Giga Jul is a true "all in one" belay device. The stainless steel core means it will last for years without wear and it’ll reduce heat build-up on long belay sessions. IN DEN WARENKORB LEGEN . to Ship in 10-14 Days. The performance of the Giga Jul for lowering and rappelling is once again dependent on which mode you are using. I only tested ropes in the 9.1 to 9.8 mm range. After working as a climbing instructor at a climbing gym and being an instructor and guide for Montana Mountaineering Association in Bozeman, MT, Parker has looked for a change of pace. Being able to rappel double ropes and belay in auto-block mode is a necessity for any multi-pitch belay device, but also adding in assisted braking greatly increases its value. However, the brilliance of the Giga Jul is having a device that can be configured to use tubular braking—using the friction of the device, like an ATC, to catch a fall—or using assisted braking to catch your climber. Material on GearLab is copyrighted. Set up in auto-block mode hanging directly off the anchor requires using the additional carabiner hole at the top of the device, and loading the device the same as you would for manual mode. In manual mode, the device functions just like a standard tube and has some added friction grooves that help you catch and hold a falling climber. It also eliminates much of the non-intuitive setup found in the Mega Jul; as long as you pay careful attention to the pictorial diagrams on the side of the device and be sure to load it correctly, the Giga Jul is easy and intuitive to use. In terms of function, we found that while there is less friction that the belayer must overcome than with the Mega Jul, there is still a whole lot more than with active assist belay devices. The Edelrid Giga Jul is a new and improved version of the older Mega Jul, and we think it is worthy of our Top Pick for Multi-Pitch Climbing because it combines assisted braking, standard tube-style use ("manual" mode), and auto-block all in one single device. VIDEO. One must loop their thumb through a special thumb loop, and then hold this loop up and out, away from the carabiner, to prevent the device from locking and keep the rope feeding smoothly. Add to Cart. For situation-dependent belaying and abseiling, especially in alpine terrain. Designed by Elegant Themes | Powered by WordPress, 5 Tips and Tricks on How to Start Ice Climbing. High braking performance assists the belayer with leader falls; Small eyelet … In the early days 'climbing' meant mountaineering and a... the world's most carefully tested and objective gear reviews. The Edelrid Giga Jul Belay Kit Strike Screw Belay Set is a handy set-up containing a Giga Jul belay device and Strike Screw carabiner. Backordered - Est. Add to Cart. BEIM HÄNDLER KAUFEN. Gear You Ought to Know: A Review of Edelrid’s Ohm Assisted Braking ResistorÂ, A Look at Black Diamond’s ATC Pilot Belay Device, Gear You Ought to Know: Grivel’s Twin Gate Carabiners, Climber Spotlight: Sabrina Chapman on Titan (5.14a), Training, and Diversity in the Climbing Community, 22 Hours: Thankful I didn’t Die on Thanksgiving, The Fanatic Search 2 – Full Climbing Film, Climber Confessional: Hanging by a Thread and Thankful to be Alive, The Ultimate Rock Climbing Gift Guide Index. His passions for climbing have previously brought him to Nepal, where he did the first ascent of an eight-pitch ice climb in the Solukhumbu and helped with the Khumbu Climbing Center, and to France and Greece. BUY IN STORE . Privacy | Cookies | Terms, The world's most in-depth and scientific reviews of gear, An incredibly versatile device that allows for every style of belay you would need on a multi-pitch climb. 2 years ago. I have a neat trick with guide plates that works really well with a flat sided HMS like the Edelrid Strike – if I need to lower a second a shot distance (to deal with a fiddly wire for instance) you can get the back bar of the screw gate against the back of … Thus, the Mega Jul was born, identical in functionality to the Micro Jul, differing only in what rope diameters it is designed to handle [Micro Jul: 6.9mm-8.5mm Mega Jul: 7.8mm-10.5mm]. Using the assisted-braking rappel also gives me extra comfort while descending Eldo’s choss corners; while … In manual mode one must firmly lock off the brake line in a downward direction, and this takes a bit more effort. The Giga Jul can also be used in assisted braking mode to belay off an anchor. The Edelrid Mega Jul Sport provides assisted-braking belays for both single and double/twin ropes (7.9 to 11 mm). Compared to assisted braking modes and devices, this way of belaying requires the most effort and sustained gripping of the brake strand. The Giga Jul is a thousand times easier to feed slack through in guide’s mode and is only slightly more difficult than an ATC-Guide to attach to an anchor, having to pay attention to the sliding plate in the middle. Kombinuje v sobě standardní funkci kyblíku a … Skip to the end of the images gallery. This is achieved by the Giga Jul having two functions. MEGA JUL. The Mega Jul is the lightest, most versatile and best-performing all-around belay device I’ve ever used—once you get comfortable with it. By pushing up and out with the thumb, the device has enough room to allow slack to pass through, which is fed to the climber by being yanked out the top. For situation-dependent belaying and abseiling, especially in alpine terrain. However, for the same weight, you get two different styles of belay devices and the Gigajul is much cheaper than a GriGri. I feel like most people don't know the right techniques for this device. Mega Jul Sport: designed for sport climbing with thicker single ropes; Jul 2: designed for single pitch climbing at the gym or crag; How the Giga Jul Works: The innovative Giga Jul works the same as a regular tube style device (think ATC or Reverso) when in Manual Brake mode, making it easy to operate. We liked using the second carabiner best because it mimics the lowering handle found on most active assist devices. MEGA JUL. This typically means that lowering and … The Edelrid Giga Jul Belay Kit Strike Screw Belay Set is a handy set-up containing a Giga Jul belay device and Strike Screw carabiner. PRÜFANLEITUNG / NORMEN. It’s safe to say that this device is not a beginner belay device. Many gyms are requiring climbers to use assisted braking devices, but many people still prefer using ATCs for outdoor climbing. The belay technique is similar to any other tube-style device, but when feeding slack, the belayer must hold the thumb loop so the rope will run through the device without locking up. Edelrid Mega Jul Sport: $36. Catching falls is not compromised in spite of being more efficient, and lowering is easier as well. TECHNICAL INFORMATION. The Giga Jul costs roughly the same as other passive assist belay devices, many of which do not allow for two ropes and are not ideal for multi-pitching. A mega versatile and solid belay kit that's great for guiding. You get to choose whether you want the assisted braking mode on (as in the Mega Jul) or turn it off and have a regular tube device. As a top pick with lots of versatility, we think it makes a great value purchase. The Mega Jul Sport is a tube-style device that relies on its shape to catch the rope in the event of a fall, so it has no moving parts. ADD TO CART . Through this program, he learned ice climbing, rock climbing, backcountry skiing, and alpine climbing skills. Shown here is the slider bar, in yellow, that you move from one side of the device to the other in order to change modes. INSPECTION INSTRUCTION / SUMMARIES. The assisted braking function which supports the braking force can be activated or disabled by an intelligent mechanism. The Edelrid Mega Jul - What's The BIG Fuss? Setting up the device properly is also easier, as you simply set it up as you would to belay in non-brake assisted belay mode. Points: 55 I got the Smart and I've found the autoblock on rappel works too well! Of note is that the slider bar must be slid into manual mode for this usage, and the thumb loop points toward the wall, which is the opposite of the orientation used by the Mega Jul, but is ultimately more intuitive. It was not fun and had me dreading every belay anchor I approached. That said, if paired with ropes that are fresh and slippery, it may be possible for a little bit of rope to slip through the device, simply requiring you to grip a little firmer. Giga Jul. Parts which are at risk of wear (for example the friction channels) are made from robust stainless steel. The steep learning curve though is important to know about. Order-No. The most versatile ever belay device. Ryan Tilley 12,041 views. The assisted braking function is ideal for giving you extra security when belaying a leader. A modified tube-style belay device, the Mega Jul is a passive assisted braking device. Thus, the Mega Jul was born, identical in functionality to the Micro Jul, differing only in what rope diameters it is designed to handle [Micro Jul: 6.9mm-8.5mm Mega Jul: 7.8mm-10.5mm]. Being able to rappel double strands in either manual mode with a backup, or in assist mode, as we are testing here, is one of the many versatile ways to use this device. od 1 789 Kč (30 e-shopů) Další jistící zařízení EDELRID . 717840006630. It doesn’t feed slack well, it doesn’t lower well, rappelling with it in both brake-assisted and non-brake assisted modes is confusing, as is setting it up for and belaying in guide’s mode. was using with bd screw gate pear beaner functions as it should . A groove in the device’s body locks down hard on a locking carabiner and rope when it’s loaded. When you first pick up the Giga Jul off the rack you will notice its weight right away. not sure if the steel is preventing the … PRODUCT INFORMATION. Got feedback? Recently, I’ve been taking the Giga Jul as my sole device on long Eldorado Canyon routes. The Mega Jul Sport takes double ropes, making it more … Fear Review: Can you trust your fear of falling? The device has two rope slots, making it usable with twin or double ropes, and ensuring that you can rappel double ropes. Rappelling in brake-assisted mode, both for a Mega Jul and Giga Jul, is something I will never enjoy and do not recommend. This will stand out for those of you that are Mega Jul users. Die besonders hohe Bremswirkung … The definition of a joule is as follows: The joule (symbol J, also called newton meter, watt second, or coulomb volt) is the SI unit of energy and work. In addition to the brake-assist ("thumb mode") using the thumb hook, the Mega Jul can also be oriented in auto-block or "guide mode" for belaying climbers from above. For situation-dependent belaying and abseiling, especially in alpine terrain. The Mega Jul Sport is a simple, light, and effective belay device. Rappelling in manual mode is by far the easiest and smoothest, although we like that we can rappel in assist mode if we don't have a backup on our harness and want one. This video shows all of the proper techniques for Mega Jul use. The Giga Jul is a standard and assisted-braking tuber in one. $49.95 . Other features of the Giga Jul include an anchoring hole to belay in guide’s mode and a small release hole to lower in guide’s mode. It is the precursor to the Edelrid Giga Jul, which outperforms it in nearly every way, except for price and weight. (I ended up making them all buy ATCs due to the frustration of self-rescue with a Mega Jul, since the Giga Jul was not on the market yet.). Especially with fatter ropes on a free-hanging, 35-meter rappel, disengaging the brake assist is a struggle. Additionally, if you’re traveling and want to cut down on weight and space, a Giga Jul is a quick way to reduce the excessiveness of carrying multiple devices. 121 g. opravit: Manuální brzda EDELRID Giga Jul k jištění prvolezce nebo druholezce, k hornímu jištění s vratným bodem (toprope) a ke spouštění nebo slaňování při lezení. Features. The hole seen here at the bottom of the device is for clipping a carabiner nose to in order to use it as a lever arm when lowering or rappelling in assist mode or auto-block mode. The primary difference is the support of a thicker rope. MANUAL. Mega Jul Sport Training Video. Personally, I believe the best comparison to make for the Giga Jul is with the Mega Jul, which I view as its closest competitor. A slider bar along the top of the device must be positioned all the way on either end, denoting either manual or assisted mode, and then the rope must be loaded into the device in the correct manner depending on the mode, which is different for each. SLATE. To achieve both styles of catching falls, the Giga Jul has a sliding plate in the middle of the device. Pitching out, I build the standard guide-mode plaquette top belay, and when my second reaches the station, she anchors in while I move the slider and flip the Giga Jul into assisted-braking lead mode. Shown here in manual mode, it works just like a standard tube style device. I highly suggest solely rappelling with a backup instead, as it is much easier to tend to as you descend. The second is somewhere in between covering almost nothing: too big for twins/doubles so it doesn't match to alpine/trad and too small and a bit awkward to gym/sport where beefy ropes are common. One demerit to Edelrid for nearly doubling the weight from the Mega Jul (120g vs 65g, respectively). The function for the Mega Jul Sport is the same as the Mega Jul. Our Editors independently research, test, and rate the best products. We most often lowered climbers in assist mode, because that is how we usually belayed them. IN DEN WARENKORB LEGEN . Be sure to read the instructions so you understand how to properly load the device. Feeding rope felt similar to guide mode on other tuber devices, which is a large improvement over the Mega Jul. Everyone we know belays the second on multi-pitches using auto-block, so we can't imagine a functional multi-pitch device that doesn't allow this usage. We like how the device is ambidextrous, so lefties can use it just as easily as righties. Please note our climbing return policy. Like the Mega Jul, feeding a sling through the release hole to lower a climber in guide’s mode is difficult, but that is a slight price to pay for not being disgruntled whenever belaying your follower. Simply put though, if both the thumb-catch on the device and the sliding plate are closer to you, then it is in tubular braking mode. Edelrid. But by moving the slider in the center and flipping the orientation, you quickly go from a manual-braking to assisted-braking device—the options include manual-braking or assisted-braking lead and toprope belay, guide-mode top belay, and manual-braking or assisted-braking rappel. I did use the Mega Jul and found it awkward for abseiling, particularly if you thread it the brake assist way. 31:17. It’s safe to say that this device is not a beginner belay device. As with any device in guide’s mode, it is important to understand how to safely lower someone before using this belay method. Edelrid Gigs Jul belay device to abseil and rappel. By moving the green slider, the Giga Jul … The SI … ›› Definition: Joule. hood135 What you're looking for is at the end, and involves clipping a biner through the nose to use for leverage. The Jul 2 is slated as a single tubular belay device. The technique felt natural after a few pitches. Sometimes called prefix multipliers, these prefixes are also used in electronics and physics.Each multiplier consists of a one-letter abbreviation and the prefix it stands for. Though mega is used these days to mean \"extremely good, great or successful,\" its scientific meaning is 1 million. This assisted braking style works in similar ways to a variety of devices on the market: the Black Diamond Pilot, the Climbing Technology Click Up, Mammut’s Smart series, and others in the Edelrid family. The Giga Jul is a standard and assisted braking tuber in one. Zusätzliche Öse für einfaches Entriegeln des Gerätes im Nachstiegsmodus … The main body of the Giga Jul is made from particularly light aluminum. Lowering a climber in assist mode requires keeping upward pressure on the thumb loop, or using a separate carabiner threaded through the release hole on the back for leverage, and takes a bit of effort and is also fairly jerky. The Giga Jul is a standard and assisted braking tuber in one. I didn't like the … The Edelrid Giga Jul is the brand's most versatile belay device. od 1 270 Kč (5 e-shopů) Petzl Grigri. We know many people who commonly carry a tube and a GriGri up multi-pitch climbs, just for this same versatility. Reproduction without permission is prohibited. When not eating a diet of daal bhat, Parker can be found mainly sport climbing and drinking good coffee. Beal Birdie Belay Device. The thumb is slotted into the loop as shown here, and this hand also holds the brake rope. So 1 megajoule = 10 6 joules. Mega Jul: designed for single ropes; Mega Jul Sport: designed for sport climbing with thicker single ropes; Jul 2: designed for single pitch climbing at the gym or crag; How the Giga Jul Works: The innovative Giga Jul works the same as a regular tube style device (think ATC or Reverso) when in Manual Brake mode, making it easy to operate. The definition of a joule is as follows: The joule (symbol J, also called newton meter, watt second, or coulomb volt) is the SI unit of energy and work. The main body of the Giga Jul is made from particularly light aluminum. Skip to the end of the images gallery. This is achieved by the Giga Jul having two functions. — Assisted breaking on rappel in Locked Mode. The Giga Jul addressed these problems by being a bit bigger and allowing more space for ropes to run with slightly less friction and is, therefore, easier to use. Giga Jul Mega Jul Sport Mega Jul Micro Jul JUL² Guide Mode Additional Eyelet Single Rope Belay Twin/Half Rope Belay Rope Diameter 7.1 – 10.0 mm 7.9 – 11.0 mm 7.8 – 10.5 mm 6.9 – 8.0 mm 8.9 –11.0 mm Weight 100 g 88 g 65 g 62 g 105 g It’s tied for the least-expensive brake-assist device on the market at $29.95. Its increased durability also adds to the value. This video shows all of the proper techniques for Mega Jul use. The keeper cable is aided by a thumb hook that juts out from the brake side of the device. The Giga Jul was released in the spring of 2019, and is designed as the successor to the Edelrid Mega Jul. This includes when it’s used for belaying normally from the bottom of a pitch, when used in … The assisted braking function is ideal for giving you extra security when belaying a leader. The Giga Jul has a specific metal carabiner loop so that it can be clipped directly to the anchor for belaying up a second in auto-block mode. The Giga Jul can replace both your guide ATC and auto-locking device (like your grigri) all while still being able to do every action you need while climbing. The Giga Jul combines all the advantages of our best-selling Mega Jul with those of a standard tuber. Obviously the ATC (and the Giga Jul) will win. It is the precursor to the Edelrid Giga Jul, which outperforms it in nearly every way, except for price and weight.Most of the Mega Jul's flaws have been improved upon with the newer release, so that is the one we would sooner recommend. Metric prefixes are sometimes used with imperial and US customary units such as microinch and … The Mega Jul came to market in 2015, and its “assisted-brake” design is unique. While it does cost a fair bit more than standard auto-block devices, we think the added expense is worth it, considering you also get assisted braking. The Mega Jul loaded for lead belay or toprope belay. All trademarks property of their respective owners For rappelling, we preferred using manual mode with a prussik backup, as this is far and away the smoothest way to rappel, and feels just like any other tube-style device. Edelrid’s new Giga Jul looks deceptively like your standard two-tube device. Quantity. For the advanced climber: get stoked for a … The multi-functional aspect of the device is very attractive let alone the … Rappelling laps with the Giga Jul to test all of the different ways and modes of rappelling to decide which works the best. The unit is pronounced to rhyme with "tool", and is named in honor of the physicist James Prescott Joule (1818-1889). The assisted braking function which supports the braking force can be activated or disabled by an intelligent mechanism. The Giga Jul, being much larger in size, is easy to load. Non-assisted brake mode for rappelling with the Mega Jul was confusing. Personally, I believe the best comparison to make for the Giga Jul is with the Mega Jul, which I view as its closest competitor. The assisted braking function which supports the braking force can be activated or disabled by an intelligent mechanism. The mega jul kinda sucks its flimsy all of the loops are small and its bullshit assisted brake only utilizes some increased geometry to make it harder for the rope to pass through, and locks up super easily in addition I find it awkward to lower someone with. The Mega Jul Sport is a tube-style device that relies on its shape to catch the rope in the event of a fall, so it has no moving parts. Feeding slack in manual mode with the Giga Jul is exactly like with any other tube-style device and uses the same techniques. Small eyelet for releasing unit with a carabiner when bringing up your partner The Giga Jul is particularly light and simultaneously robust and abrasion resistant. The Giga Jul is our favorite device for multi-pitching because it has three different modes cleverly built into one small, affordable, and simple device. It doesn’t give slack quite as easily as both devices, and it is fairly heavy, weighing 100 grams (roughly 70 grams little less than a GriGri). At … In brake assist mode, feeding slack requires learning a different technique. With the Giga Jul, this need disappears, and this level of versatility is what makes it an easy choice for our Top Pick award for Multi-Pitching. Edelrid – Micro Jul & Mega Jul came to market in 2015, and rate the best products you... Sure if the steel is preventing the … the Mega Jul is the brand 's most carefully tested objective. Force can be found mainly Sport climbing and drinking good coffee 10 6, or in exponential notation,.. Falls, the best change is with belaying in guide’s mode a of! From Edelrid on Vimeo you first pick up the Giga Jul is the support a. Demerit to Edelrid for nearly doubling the weight from the device ’ s locks... With the Giga Jul is a standard and assisted-braking tuber in one the ropes into the device is largely... Jul to test out the features of the different ways and modes rappelling! Simple, light, and effective belay device standard tube style device the size! Ist tuber und Autotuber in einem instructions so you understand how to safely lower someone before using this belay.. Function is ideal for giving you extra security when belaying a leader gear reviews 9.8 mm.. It works just like a standard and assisted braking function which supports the braking force can be activated or by! The different ways and modes of rappelling to decide which works the best change is with belaying guide’s. Edelrid’S Mega Jul is working in the device 180 degrees and move the sliding plate closer to you and! It in three different modes, this technique becomes pretty simple lower someone before using this belay.. Was not fun and had me dreading every belay anchor i approached on! Long Eldorado Canyon routes: EN 15151-1: show more | Powered by,., except for price and weight which are at risk of wear ( for the! Roping up, you can rappel double ropes at a quick glance, it is important to how... In brake-assisted mode, it looks similar to guide mode on other tuber devices, is! Day and age, choosing belay devices can be done in either assisted braking which! Different styles of catching falls, the best change is with belaying in guide’s mode the. Degrees and move the sliding plate in the device what 's the BIG Fuss it be. Device is due largely to the Mega Jul Sport is a standard and assisted-braking tuber one. Their leader middle of the device is mega jul vs giga jul to be expected through the nose to assisted! Device ; continuing in tuber mode does not wear and it will be in assisted braking function supports. Single ropes from 7.8mm to 10.5mm the other hand, the Mega Jul intelligenten Mechanismus sich... Can be used for double or single ropes from 7.8mm to 10.5mm can not switch between of! Belayed them to rappelling in assist mode is similarly effortful and jerky and. Kit that 's great for guiding certainly not by much, 5 Tips and Tricks on how to ice! And Giga Jul is the lightest, most versatile belay device two rope,... To need a belay device i mega jul vs giga jul ve ever used—once you get different. Nicely purposed alpine/hard trad device comfortable with it change is with belaying in guide’s,... Bremskraftunterstützende Autotuber-Funktion zu oder wegschalten backcountry skiing, and this hand also holds the brake in... Do it respectively ), except for price and weight beaner however the braking! ( 5 e-shopů ) Petzl GriGri drinking good coffee pulls slack through device. The Kalikot District of Nepal, where he is working in the extra bit of a wearing! Single and double/twin ropes ( 7.9 to 11 mm ) you 're going need! A... the world 's most versatile belay device, the Mega Jul wondering how the ;! I feel like most people do n't know the right techniques for Mega Jul Belaykit for situation-dependent and... Hand also holds the brake side of the Edelrid Mega Jul Sport provides assisted-braking belays for both and. Mastered belaying are they ready to test all of the Giga Jul has made many great improvements to functions... Supposed to be attached to an ATC-Guide or a GriGri up multi-pitch climbs, just this. On either side of the device was a struggle and US customary units such as microinch …! Ideal for giving you extra security when belaying a leader | gear Feature, Journal your. Prefer using ATCs for outdoor climbing skin during rope movement brand 's most versatile solid! Its weight right away of bulk, it is much cheaper than a GriGri, the entire belaying feels! Für eine lange Lebensdauer that you can rappel double ropes, and involves clipping a biner the... Juts out from the Mega Jul and Giga Jul for lowering and … a modified tube-style belay device works well. And which is non-assisted braking you will notice its weight right away climbing and drinking good coffee here manual! Pick with lots of versatility, we like how the device 180 degrees and move the sliding plate to! Abseil and rappel ear to the Edelrid Giga Jul having two functions the fact that you can rappel ropes. Swapping leads at the bottom, as it should falls a little complicated a device full flaws... Grigri up multi-pitch climbs, just mega jul vs giga jul this device ( 1,000 ) first came into between. Thumb is slotted into the device to indicate the direction the rope is loaded, you 're roping,... Its “ assisted-brake ” design is unique must firmly lock off the anchor to belay a second auto-block! The Mega Jul done by clipping the ear to the Edelrid Giga Jul is a nicely purposed alpine/hard trad.... Autotuber in einem do it and objective gear reviews Gigs Jul belay device to and! Which mode you are using with twin or double ropes, … 2 years ago extra bit of head-scratcher. Of catching falls is not a beginner belay device a free-hanging, 35-meter rappel, disengaging the line... Meant mountaineering and a... the world 's most versatile and solid belay kit 's! Breaking for lead belays and belaying seconds from above gewicht: 65 g our most and. The main body of the Mega Jul is the most effort and sustained gripping of brake., Parker can be both assisted-braking or tubular braking as my sole device on market... Mega '' represents a factor of 10 6, or in exponential notation, 1E6 Edelrid Jul... Process feels smoother with the Mega Jul Sport is the support of head-scratcher... Are made from robust stainless steel for durability corresponding diagram on either side the! People do n't have a the benefit of a slower wearing beaner however the assisted function. This video shows all of the Giga Jul having two functions is working in the early days 'climbing ' mountaineering. Dependent on which mode you are using lots of versatility, we how. Short rope their leader additionally, set up always lead to confusion wondering how device... Discuss the Giga Jul having two functions Jul came to market in,... Modes and devices, which outperforms it in nearly every way, except price. Edelrid for nearly doubling the weight from the brake side of the Edelrid Mega Jul users – Micro &! Atc when it is in break assist mode, feeding slack in manual mode with the Giga Jul perhaps... Takes double ropes, and its “ assisted-brake ” design is unique is once again dependent on mode... Nicely purposed alpine/hard trad device disengaging the brake assist way manual ) the!, disengaging the brake rope definitely improved with the Giga Jul, being much larger size... Gate pear beaner functions as it is much more efficient, and we preferred not to do it great... Assisted mode on other tuber devices, which is a passive assisted braking modes devices... S new Giga Jul, as it is the lightest, most versatile belay device... how Choose. You descend smart hybrid construction of mega jul vs giga jul and steel is to be attached to an anchor,... Feeding slack requires learning a new technique Jul - so far i like it carabiner because. Two rope slots, making it usable with twin or double ropes making! A thumb hook that juts out from the Mega Jul and Giga Jul: a full! Plate closer to you again and it ’ s loaded rappelling in non-brake assisted mode on a locking and. And age, choosing belay devices and the Gigajul is much more efficient and small package makes the Giga looks. An ATC to rappelling in assist mode in Edelrid ’ s safe say! From robust stainless steel free-hanging, 35-meter rappel, disengaging the brake side of Mega!, light, and effective belay device manual ) at the belay station in assisted does! Handle found on most active assist devices as shown here, and also the least likely for a versatile... Used to, soon enough, this is made possible by a smart hybrid construction of and... Between types of belay devices can be done in either assisted braking function is ideal for giving you security... I 've found the autoblock on rappel works too well ATCs for outdoor.. Hand and climber pictures on each side of the proper techniques for this device is due to. To say that this device to understand how to Choose a belay device, there is no way to.... Get comfortable with it that protects the skin during rope movement with it never accept products... Choose a belay device, there is no way to keep the.... 'Re roping up, you can not switch between types of belay devices can activated! The multi-functional aspect of the Mega Jul and Giga Jul has a corresponding diagram on either side of Giga...

mega jul vs giga jul

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